A Review of Ocean House in Croton-on-Hudson
The New York Times - Dining Review | Westchester
By M.H. Reed (published September 19, 2014)
Despite its out-of-the-way location and its history as a funky diner, the Ocean House restaurant has transformed its deficits, and without nets and ships' wheels. Colonial-blue trim suggests an old fisherman's cottage on a briny New England shore. But it's the Hudson River that runs beyond the front door of Ocean House in Croton-on-Hudson.
The restaurant's grand subtitle, Oyster Bar & Grill, belies its frugal rectangular dining space, with table seats for 24 and five spots at the counter. Patrons bring their own beer or wine; no reservations are taken. The menu reflects that same sort of Northeastern spareness, especially the short blackboard menu, where diners will find the restaurant's latest catch, which changes frequently.
The helpful serving staff knows its oysters, which are beginning to come into season. Right now, the salty, meaty ones from Prince Edward Island are in, as well as some of the more delicate, sweeter oysters from the West Coast, like the popular Kumomotos. More will be ready in the weeks to come. Ignore the feisty-flavored sauces; perhaps add a drop of lemon.
Ocean House cooks up one of the best New England clam "chowdas" we've had in recent memory. Here the kitchen doesn't thicken its soup and, mercifully, goes easy on the cream and the salt. What fills the bowl are neatly diced potatoes and chunks of chewy clams, onion and bacon bobbing in a superb, potent broth.
Apart from their bivalve name, sautéed oyster mushrooms with chunks of goat cheese made an odd appetizer item. Not so classic grilled calamari, the tender rings and the shower of baby tentacles drizzled with olive oil, lemon, garlic and parsley.
Equally satisfying was the Maine lobster roll. The soft, disintegrating bun would have benefited, though, from toasting to support the big hunks of sweet lobster mingled with a soupçon of mayonnaise, the way it should be. And a shout-out to the delicious coleslaw that came with it and to the bulky sticks of virtually greaseless potato fries.
On the wall, a blackboard menu steers diners to the simply prepared catch of the moment. Fluke were running (I'd seen them fished out of Montauk the weeks before) and the small fillets were offered stuffed with crab, which is usually mixed with assertive seasoning and loads of bread. Here this stuffing was neither, instead a delicious crabby understatement that allowed the fluke to shine. And snowy cod broke in perfect glistening pieces, its accompaniments — lovely fresh tomato and fennel — appropriately muted in their supporting role. But overly astringent citrus vinaigrette overwhelmed the skate wing, a great springy-textured fish with a flavor likened to lobster or scallops. Best to have the sauce on the side.
On the regular printed menu, two items — grilled New York strip steak with chimichurri sauce, and linguine with shrimp, fennel, tomato and capers — should please non-fish-lovers. Sad to say, the printed menu's fish dishes were gussied-up disappointments. Heavy doses of aggressive herbs and spices from Indian, Moroccan and Mexican cuisines concealed rather than enhanced the sea fare, like roasted Norwegian salmon and seared shrimp.
Accompaniments of green beans, wild rice, potatoes and coleslaw were all well turned out.
After feasting on the rich flavors of the previous courses, diners nevertheless in the mood for something sweet might like a bit of ice cream. Skip an ill-conceived, bitter banana and ice cream "sushi." Stick to basics like a scoop with caramel or chocolate sauce or fresh fruit under a cap of whipped cream.
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Ocean House
49 North Riverside Avenue
Croton-on-Hudson
914-271-0702
oceanhouseoysterbar.com
Very Good
THE SPACE Black-and-white photographs of shore life and cheery Colonial-blue trim brighten a spare, unpretentious former diner. Beachy cushions soften hardwood seating that accommodates 24 at tables and five at the counter. Not wheelchair accessible; three steps at the narrow entrance.
THE CROWD Mostly adults in casual dress. Efficient service from a knowledgeable staff.
THE BAR Ocean House carries no liquor license, but for a corkage fee of $6 a bottle, diners can bring wine or beer.
THE BILL Some prices fluctuate, reflecting the market price of the day's catch. Raw oysters, $2.25 to $3 each. Soup by the cup, $6.50; by the bowl, $8.50. Other starters, $12.50 to $15. Entrees, $24.50 to $31. Major credit cards accepted.
WHAT WE LIKED Raw oysters, grilled calamari, New England clam "chowda," skate wing (sauce on the side), cod with fennel (special), lobster roll, fluke with crab stuffing (special), ice cream with fruit or caramel sauce.
IF YOU GO Dinner, Tuesday through Saturday, 5 p.m. until the last customer departs. Street parking.